There are currently 3 different versions of Nikon 50mm lenses that you can buy new: The 50mm f/1.8D, 50mm f/1.4D and 50mm f/1.4G. In addition to these lenses, there are third party lenses, like Sigma’s very capable 50mm 1.4 HSM, and some older Nikon lenses still in circulation.
Shallow depth of field. Nikon D300, 50mm f/1.4D at f/1.4, 1/160, ISO 200.
If you are using a Nikon DX or 1.5 crop body, like my Nikon D300, the 50mm lens acts like a 75mm: in other words, a short telephoto. I bought mine specifically for shots where I need extremely shallow depth of field, and so I intend to use it wide-open or close to it. I can also use it for low light shots, although the short telephoto focal length will make it a bit cumbersome to work with for general low-light shooting.
A low light example: Releasing a lantern during Loy Krathong at Krabi, Thailand. Nikon D300, 50mm f/1.4G at f/1.4, 1/200, ISO3200.
Which one did I get? I bought all three, tested them, and ended up keeping the new 50mm f/1.4G.
My main problems with the older ‘screw-drive’ versions, the 50 f/1.8D and 50 f/1.4D, was that they had a higher tendency to misfocus on my D300, and focusing accuracy is critical when shooting with shallow depth of field. The new 50 f/1.4G, despite being equipped with a supposedly faster AF-S focusing system, actually focuses slower on my D300, but is much more accurate.
Who likes a big wet kiss on the face? Nikon D300, 50mm f/1.8D at f/1.8, 1/2000, ISO 200.
I really wanted to like the cheap and light 50 f/1.8D, but I had some bad front focusing issues with it, and the lens tended to be quite soft wide open closer to the edges.
I’m hesitant to recommend the 50mm f/1.4G outright. Not only is it the heaviest, it is also the most expensive. In fact, for a 50mm prime lens, it is absurdly expensive. Quality control also isn’t that great. All three ‘Made In China’ samples I looked at had dust inside the lens, which means it happened during manufacturing in the factory.
If you can afford to stop the lens down a little, say to f/2 or smaller aperture, and you’re happy with the focusing accuracy, I’d say take a closer look at the older 50’s. If you must have the best, the new Nikon 50mm f/1.4G is the best in terms of overall performance, but you’ll pay through the nose for that performance ;o)
Courage Defined. Taken during The North Face Ultra 100 Singapore with a Panasonic Lumix LX3.
My criteria for choosing a compact ‘adventure’ camera is simple: I’m stretching my limits, both physically and mentally, and the camera has to give me the best quality image in a package that I’d be willing to carry (given the option of carry this or nothing at all).
Think of it like this: What camera would you be willing to carry for that once-in-a lifetime climb up the summit of Mt. Everest? You want a good camera to record your success, but at the same time, carrying too heavy a camera may jeopardize that very success.
Or what camera would bring while running the Marathon des Sable, a 250km foot race in the Sahara Desert where racers need to carry all their food and personal gear while racing for 7 days? Again, carrying too heavy a camera may affect your performance, making you less competitive, or even jeopardize your chances to complete the race.
The answer to both these questions, at least for me, is the Panasonic LX3. Light enough, with excellent and publishable image quality, in a compact, relatively easy-to-use package.
LX3 vs. Panasonic GF1 The GF1 offers more flexibility with its interchangeable lens system and may offer better image quality, but the GF1 will be both larger and heavier.
Choose the GF1: for less extreme adventures where weight and size matter less, and the photographer can benefit from the interchangeable lens system. LX3 vs. Canon G10 (or G11) These cameras are going to give me excellent image quality. I prefer the ergonomics and control layout of the Canons, and I think they would be easier to operate with gloves on. But it came down to which lens I preferred, and I preferred the wider, faster lens on the LX3.
Choose the G10 (G11): if you prefer the longer focal length and broader zoom range.
LX3 vs. Leica D-Lux 4 I’ve seen the image comparisons online, and the results are too close to call. It came down to the cost, and the D-Lux 4 will cost a lot more to replace if you break it. Plus the LX3 has the benefit of the tiny molded grip, which does make it a little better to hold… and probably less likely to drop.
Choose the D-Lux 4: if you’re a die-hard Leica fan.
Everest Summiter, Joanne Soo, descending the Low's Peak Circuit via ferrata, Mt. Kinabalu, Malaysian Borneo. Panasonic LX3, 1/500, f/4, ISO 80.
There are only 2 serious compact cameras that I considered as a replacement for my compact adventure camera: the Panasonic Lumix DMC LX3 and the Canon G10. While I prefered the control layout and feel of the G10, I chose the LX3 because of its bright f/2.0-2.8, 24-60mm wide-angle to mid-range zoom, similar to what I’d get on a full-frame DSLR with a 24-70mm f/2.8 lens.
Jack Chen spotting Soo Wan Ming on the 1st ascent(?) of 'Kenneth's Chalk' (V0), Shithouse Boulder, Mt. Kinabalu Summit Plateau. Panasonic LX3, 1/400, f/4, ISO 80.
I’m a little late to the party, but since I’ve put about 3000 frames through this camera, I thought I’d throw in my own totally subjective, non-analytical thoughts into the review mix.
+ Fast, Sharp, Wide, Optically Image Stabilized Leica Lens The lens on this baby is amazing, and is what makes using this camera a joy. The maximum aperture is f/2 at 24mm: the fastest and widest in its class. Excellent Image Quality I guess it’s the combination of the largish sensor, low noise (although I limit mine to ISO 400) and good dynamic range. DSLR quality? Not quite, but at low ISOs, it’s close.
RAW Burst Mode Up to 3 RAW frames at 2.5 frames per second. - There are a few criticisms, but I'm nitpicking ;o) - Poor Pop-Up Flash Performance - Slow start up time - Controls feel cramped - Joystick too easy to accidentally shift - Mode Dial too easy to accidentally shift - Grip too small, slick, and does not feel secure for one handed shooting - Battery door is flimsy - LCD hard to read in outdoor sunlight
Shadow of me photographing Wilfred Tok, owner and operator of Mountain Torq, on the via ferrata cables. Panasonic LX3, 1/500, f/4.5, ISO 80. In The Field I’ve never used this camera in Manual Mode. I just don’t think the controls are set up well for that. I prefer to use one of the Semi-Auto (A or S Modes) or Program (P) Mode and use the joystick to dial in some exposure compensation, and it works very well like this. Sometimes though, the controls (both the mode dial and the joystick) are a little too easy to shift and I do wish they were a bit stiffer to prevent accidental shifting.
Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3 with modified LC-1 lens cap and Lowepro D-Pods 30 case.
Speed of access is important in adventure or travel photography. This is how fast you can get to your camera and take your first shot. I keep my LX3 in a modified Lowepro D-Pods 30 and use a modified Ricoh lens cap. I usually turn on the camera before I take it out of the bag, but because of the extending lens, this is not possible with the LX3, so I lose a little time here, and the camera feels slow when starting up to the time I’m able to take my first shot.
Jispal Singh and Jack Chen on their way back to the hut after a day of climbing, Mt. Kinabalu, Malaysian Borneo. Panasonic LX3, 1/320, f/2, ISO 80.
In the hand, the camera almost feels ‘too small’ with a miniscule grip, and cramped controls. But if you think about it, that’s what we want, a small compact and lightweight camera. The addition of an optical viewfinder would have been nice, but would have added bulk and weight. Panasonic’s solution is the Auto Power LCD function, which ‘gains up’ the LCD in bright light. It works, but you’ll probably need to remove your sunglasses to see the LCD well.
Useable apertures run from f/2 (f/2.8 at 60mm) to f/8. The sweet spot for maximizing sharpness on this lens is about f/4. Isolating a subject with a nice background blur using a large aperture like f/2.8 is going to be tough - the short focal lengths and small sensor size on small compact cameras combine to give the image a large depth of field. On the flipside, f/8 isn’t really a small enough aperture to give a nice sunstar when shooting into the sun. This is not a criticism, just a limitation of the way these small compact cameras work.
Making our way down the via ferrata cables to the base of the climb. Panasonic LX3, 1/200, f/8, ISO 80.
Conclusion The Panasonic LX3 is not the camera for everyone. Some users may prefer a zoom with more reach, but for me the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX3is a near perfect adventure camera: Excellent image quality with a fast, and useful, wide to midrange zoom lens in a compact and lightweight package. Other Notes: Lens Cap Mod This uses a modified Ricoh LC-1 Lens Cap. This is a great addition for the camera and there are a number of mods out there.
Ian Ho’s method is the easiest, requiring nothing more than forcing the LC1 lens cap through the threads of the LX3, and then using some spacers to hold the flaps out of the way. The method I used was the ‘Chinese’ method, requiring painstaking sanding and cutting away of excess material on the inside of the lens cap. Be careful with this method though, I stabbed myself in the finger doing this, but the final results are the best, with the slimmest profile, does not require any spacers, and does not get in the way of the pop-up flash. If you screw up the ‘Chinese’ method, then you can still do the ‘glue-on’ method, whereby you sand down the LC1 even further, and simply epoxy the LC-1 to the LX3’s screw on mount. This isn’t as slim as the Chinese method, and still requires spacers.
Bypassing the anchors on the Low's Peak Circuit via ferrata. Panasonic Lumix LX3, 1/100, f/2.2, ISO 80.
I spent a week on Mt. Kinabalu at the invitation of Wilfred Tok, owner and operator of Mountain Torq, the World's highest via ferrata. The original purpose of the trip was to help Wilfred bolt up some new sport climbing routes, and then have some time to ourselves. We managed to try out some of Wilfred's sport routes, explore Alexandra (one of the neighbouring peaks), do some bouldering (including putting up what we think is a new problem) as well as walk up the Low's Peak summit and do the Low's Peak Circuit Via Ferrata.
The Start of the Low's Peak Circuit via ferrata on the summit plateau. Panasonic LX3, 1/800, f/4.5, ISO 80.
Kinabalu National Park is strictly regulated, and while our expedition-climbing permit allowed us a lot of freedom, most people would be required to engage a local “guide” and follow a structured itinerary. Most people plan for just two days on the mountain, spending the first day hiking up to Mountain Torq’s Pendant Hut situated at 3270m (10,728’), then trying to catch a few hours of sleep before having to leave the hut at 2:30am in order to catch sunrise on Low’s Peak (Mt. Kinabalu’s highest point at 4095m).
Soo Wan Ming belaying Joanne Soo up the 2nd pitch of a yet-to-be-named 10 pitch climb(5.10a+/6a+). Panasonic LX3, 1/320, f/2.8, ISO 80.
On the descent from the summit plateau, Mountain Torq offers two via ferrata routes. The descent by the shorter, and easier, via ferrata route called ‘Walk The Torq’ is taken by almost all participants who spend just one night at the Pendant Hut. If you’re more gung ho, are fitter, and can afford the time, I’d suggest spending another night and doing the Low’s Peak Circuit route, touted as the World’s highest via ferrata. It is much more exposed, and takes longer to do, but is much more fun!
Rapping off the central gully of Alexandra after climbing the NE Face. Panasonic LX3, 1/2000. f/2.0, ISO 80. Recommedations Diamox I’d recommend anyone ascending from sea level to read up on Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) and consider speaking to your doctor about taking Diamox as a precaution.
Rain Gear Besides all your insulating layers, you’re going to need good raingear. Bring the best you can afford. Kinabalu is a big mountain sitting in the tropics: Think ‘Cold’ and ‘Wet’. An umbrella is fine for the lower mountain; a poncho is better; but high on the mountain, nothing beats waterproof/breathable rainwear. My top pick for a rain jacket is The North Face Triumph Anorak; bombproof and lightweight.
Leather Gloves The via ferrata can rip up tender hands, bring along a pair of leather gloves like belay or biking gloves.
Best Time to Visit Rain can occur at any time, whatever the season. Mornings are usually clear, but clouds and rain can form by late morning. The dry season, and hence best time to visit is from April to September.
See the Mountain Torq website for a comprehensive equipment list and more information.
While looking for some tunes to go along with a slideshow I made recently, I came across this track by Christoper Tin. It's actually a remixed version of the opening song from a computer game called 'Civilization IV':
He's got an upcoming album called 'Calling All Dawns' set to be released on October 1st. These two songs are samples of the first two tracks of the album. I can't wait for it!
Shallow depth of field. Nikon D300, 50mm f/1.4D at f/1.4, 1/160, ISO 200.
A low light example: Releasing a lantern during Loy Krathong at Krabi, Thailand. Nikon D300, 50mm f/1.4G at f/1.4, 1/200, ISO3200.
Who likes a big wet kiss on the face? Nikon D300, 50mm f/1.8D at f/1.8, 1/2000, ISO 200.
is the best in terms of overall performance, but you’ll pay through the nose for that performance ;o)
and use a modified Ricoh lens cap. I usually turn on the camera before I take it out of the bag, but because of the extending lens, this is not possible with the LX3, so I lose a little time here, and the camera feels slow when starting up to the time I’m able to take my first shot.
is a near perfect adventure camera: Excellent image quality with a fast, and useful, wide to midrange zoom lens in a compact and lightweight package.
. This is a great addition for the camera and there are a number of mods out there.
