When I think about rock-climbing destinations in Asia, Taiwan does not readily spring to mind, but there I was, on a spur-of-the-moment trip... and having the time of my life!
Long Dong (龍洞 : lóng dòng), which means Dragon's Cave is the name of the stretch of sea cliffs along Taiwan's North East coast. About an hour's drive from Taipei, the climbs range from 5.4 to 5.14a and comprise of both sport and trad routes, mostly single pitch with a few multi-pitch routes.
Where Stone Meets Ocean from Kenneth Koh on Vimeo.
Quality of the routes is generally very high, and old bolts are being replaced with new stainless steel ones. There are some areas with loose rock and it's best to get information about the area you intend to climb from locals or and the latest guidebook available here.
This is probably the most dramatic location I've climbed at. The waves are incredibly powerful, and must be respected at all times. No less than six people were swept out to sea the weekend I was there. Making your way to and from the climb is probably more hazardous than the actual climbing!
Along with the waves, weather can be an issue. The climbing season is year round, although it can get very hot and humid in Summer, and Winter can be wet. Your best bet is late Fall, after the Typhoon season (October-November).
Although I can speak a little Mandarin, I can't read or write. I got QX (qxadventures.com) to arrange transport and accommodation for me in Long Dong, which turned out be a simple, but comfortable guest house in Long Dong Village. Frankly, there isn't much to do outside of climbing in Long Dong. Fortunately, QX shuttled us out for breakfast and dinner everyday. If you need a guide, or just someone to make arrangements for your climbing in Long Dong, check out qxadventures.com.
Tech notes: I used my new Panasonic GH4 for most of the video, GoPro on a DJI Phantom for the aerials, and iPhone 4s for the night opera, and the last sequence of Clare climbing was contributed by QX.
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| Rock-Climbing, Long Dong, Taiwan. Copyright © Kenneth Koh 2014 |
Long Dong (龍洞 : lóng dòng), which means Dragon's Cave is the name of the stretch of sea cliffs along Taiwan's North East coast. About an hour's drive from Taipei, the climbs range from 5.4 to 5.14a and comprise of both sport and trad routes, mostly single pitch with a few multi-pitch routes.
Where Stone Meets Ocean from Kenneth Koh on Vimeo.
Quality of the routes is generally very high, and old bolts are being replaced with new stainless steel ones. There are some areas with loose rock and it's best to get information about the area you intend to climb from locals or and the latest guidebook available here.
This is probably the most dramatic location I've climbed at. The waves are incredibly powerful, and must be respected at all times. No less than six people were swept out to sea the weekend I was there. Making your way to and from the climb is probably more hazardous than the actual climbing!
Along with the waves, weather can be an issue. The climbing season is year round, although it can get very hot and humid in Summer, and Winter can be wet. Your best bet is late Fall, after the Typhoon season (October-November).
 |
| Sunset, Long Dong, Taiwan. Copyright © Kenneth Koh 2014 |
Although I can speak a little Mandarin, I can't read or write. I got QX (qxadventures.com) to arrange transport and accommodation for me in Long Dong, which turned out be a simple, but comfortable guest house in Long Dong Village. Frankly, there isn't much to do outside of climbing in Long Dong. Fortunately, QX shuttled us out for breakfast and dinner everyday. If you need a guide, or just someone to make arrangements for your climbing in Long Dong, check out qxadventures.com.
Tech notes: I used my new Panasonic GH4 for most of the video, GoPro on a DJI Phantom for the aerials, and iPhone 4s for the night opera, and the last sequence of Clare climbing was contributed by QX.
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